in libris, veritas; in kava, vita

[in books, truth; in coffee, life]- "The Globe"

Well tonight marks the eve of our first overnight adventure outside of Praha. We are all pretty tired and horrible at packing which makes for an interesting combination. Good thing its only for a weekend.

I thought I would do a quick little update before Berlin:

Last night I just couldn't 'mecca it'. Mecca is a club that we have been going to every Wednesday night. It's fun, but it is quite the intense scene. I made about half way up Machova and then realized that my body couldn't actually physically make it there. So instead, Moose, Ash, and I enjoyed a hilarious evening of Arrested Development and a cozy bed. Since staying in is such a rarity here, I've come to appreciate the feeling even more.

So much so that this morning was not as brutal as anticipated since I had to wake up early to finish my roll of film for photography. In an effort to complete something on my list of things to do in Prague before I leave, I decided to go to the sex machine museum and take my last few photos. Johanna was supposed to come with me but at 8:30 this morning, it turned out I was in this alone. Super sketchy... and weird... especially because I was the only person in the entire museum.

For my class 'Kafka and his Contexts', we had to read 'The Judgement' which I have never read before. But we still have yet to remotely discuss it. I wrote about how last class we went to visit Kafka's birth place, well today we did a walk around Old Town Square and saw the different apartments that Kafka lived in and the schools he attended. Seems to me like Kafka's Contexts are taking priority over Kafka himself. I'm not complaining. It's also weird because one of the buildings my professor took us to today was the same building where the notary is located and I had just been there earlier this morning to get something notarized for my (still non existant) visa.

I have been researching various bookstores/cafes here in Praha and after photo today, Johanna and I decided to wander over to The Globe which is conveniently located near one of the metro stops. It was just what we both needed -- a very relaxing atmosphere with delicious food and great books to peruse. I definitely want to go back -- hopefully we can make it one of those "usual" places.

Well, as the washing machine perpetually spins since it won't open for me, I must go forcefully attempt to pull my clothes out. (Laundry is very difficult here in Prague, just so you know). And then I shall get some sleep only to wake up at 4:15 am to train it to Berlin!

Na schledanou for now! I will update again after the weekend.

Lost in Translation

[["The door was the way to... to... The Door was The Way. Good. Capital letters were always the best way of dealing with things you didn't have a good answer to." ~Douglas Adams (props to Nancy :)) ]]

I'm proud to say that, tonight, two and a half weeks into our abroad experience, Johanna and I successfully made a home cooked meal. While mine merely consisted of a bag of frozen vegetables, rice and eggs, it still felt good to sit down for a well-balanced meal. I feel like so far on this trip we have been scavengers- searching and grabbing any morsel of food we can find. It's basically like perpetual weekends on the dark side. But, yea, it was definitely nice to come home from a long day of internship and classes and just sit down at our kitchen table and eat. I'm getting sick of going out to dinner or just stopping on the street and picking up a sandwich.

Yesterday was the first day of my internship at The Prague Writer's Festival. The office is conveniently located about 5 minutes away from the NYU Center, so it won't be a problem going right from or right before classes. The office is in a really great area of the city, one which I hadn't known existed until yesterday. I'm pretty sure the hours I will be going to the office are Mondays 3-6 and Tuesdays 10-1. It's great because a lot of the work that I have to do can be done while I am laying in my bed. Perfect. The president of the Prague Writer's Festival is absolutely brilliant and he has interviewed and spoken with so many famous authors (Rushdie, Atwood, Schneider, Burroughs, Auster...to name a few). I think I am going to learn a lot of useful and interesting things by working closely with the festival and it will also hopefully help my Czech!

The main thing I am working on right now for the internship is correcting the english translation on the website. It's so weird though - I almost feel bad translating the English because it's almost as if I am re-translating the translation. Someone has already taken the Czech website and translated it into English and it is my job to correct the existing English; however, the problem is that some of the English is incomprehendable. I feel like by the time my 'translation' is through, the original meaning of the Czech will be twice removed. But, oh well, I guess there isn't really anything I can do about it since I can't read Czech.

So as I find myself lost amongst both English and Czech translations, I have also found myself lost amongst the labryinth-like city streets of Prague. Two weeks ago, my biggest fear was getting lost on a side street alone. While that fear still remains (don't worry, Mom), I have found a sort of peaceful angst when it comes to wandering the streets of Prague. Since I now know the general direction in which I should be heading, I love exploring and venturing off on my own. I feel like the only way to truly feel comfortable in a foreign place is to get lost and find your way.

Today on the third day of classes we went on our first field trip to a Kafka museum and we saw the building where Kafka was born. I could do this whole field trip thing...

I love lazy Sundays. In Prague, the fact that literally everything is closed on Sundays gives me the perfect excuse to stay in bed, which is much needed after we attended the pub crawl last night. Monday is Rachel's birthday so we decided to celebrate it on Saturday night with the pub crawl. Isaac, the crawl leader, met us in front of the astronomical clock at 9:30 pm and from there we crawled to various pubs in Old Town [most of which we have already been too, so at least we know we're hitting the right spots].

Before the debaucherous events of the crawl, Johanna, Tessa, and I had such a wonderful day. First, we all went to purchase our train tickets for Berlin next weekend! I'm really excited that we are actually following through with plans... that is definitely something new to me. We are leaving at 6:25 am on Friday morning [brutal!] and then coming back to Praha on Sunday night. Luckily the superbowl doesn't start here until 2:30 in the morning so we'll be back in plenty of time.

After finding one really great vintage store, we have been a mission to seek out others. Yesterday we had great success. Not only was the store incredible, but we also befriended another owner. She is from California and has been living in Prague for a few years now. Every American or Australian that I've met so far has been so friendly. Honestly, being over the pond, I feel like I am actually learning more about Americans than about the Czechs themselves. I guess that isn't a bad thing, just not what I would have expected.

In an effort to try and do something cultural everyday, we decided to check out the Lennon Wall, which is right off of the Charles Bridge. It's actually in this amazing area that we had never seen: it's much quieter, and less touristy than Old Town Square.



It really is an amazing thing: the Lennon wall first started in the 1980s because students would write Beatle-inspired quotes on the wall as a means to non-violently rebel against the communist regime. Now, the wall is a representation of people's graffiti from all over the world. It's really neat to see how so many different people come to one small wall and continue to reflect the ideas of peace.

While walking to the tramvaj from the Lennon Wall, we found a beautiful park with tons of benches. I was so happy to see more than one measly tree in one concentrated area. As beautiful as the buildings are here, I do still miss being in the middle of the woods at Hamilton.

Kutna Hora

This is probably going to be a boring post, but I just wanted to mention what we did today. It's 5:45 on Friday evening and we just got back from Kutna Hora- a medieval town- where we saw St. Barbara's Church which was absolutely beautiful:



The tour was a little longer than I would have liked. I wish we could just go to some of these places and explore on our own rather than have to follow a tour guide. We spent like 20 minutes in one tiny room-- I need to just go and look at everything at my own pace.

But after the church we went to lunch and then went to the Bone Church, the reason why I truly went to Kutna Hora today. I am really happy that I decided to bring out my camera for photo today. I can't wait to develop the pictures and see how they came out. I took some pictures, or I should say Danielle took some pictures, with a digital camera of the bone museum:



So overall, it was a good first day excursion-- I'm looking forward to going away for the weekends now though.

Favorite Word in Czech- Okurka

[[okurka: translation: cucumber]]

At Hamilton I always have such strong ambitions to attend guest speaker lectures and other cultural events that the school offers. I plan on going, get excited but then at the last minute I tend to get caught up, or usually too lazy to lazy to walk from the dark side to the Chapel. So, I have to say that I am pretty surprised, yet proud at how we have been forcing ourselves to go to any event that sparks interest. It's easy to just hang out, but I've felt so good after going someplace important every day here. The latest cultural event I've attended was last night's showing of the documentary "Fighter"- a movie about life in Central Europe for Jan Weiner, a Jewish man who successfully escaped Czechoslovakia during WWII. Jan Weiner actually came to the NYU center to present the film and later answer questions. The movie was so moving and had an even greater impact on the audience because he was there in person. The movie is about him retracing the steps of his escape-- and you literally see the places where his friends and family were killed and where he himself almost died. After watching this movie, things started to hit me. I am truly starting to understand the lost sense of identity that these people have incurred as a result of living under the communist regime.

Anyways, so after receiving an email about internship opportunities in Prague, I couldn't resist applying for the Prague Writer's Festival. I really didn't want an internship but this one just seemed so cool. After meeting with the head of the festival yesterday, it seems like it is going to be a really great experience, but a little more intense than anticipated. I am basically the editor of the website... I think. We'll see next week when the internship actually starts. But here is the website if you want to check it out: www.pwf.cz

Crazy update: I've been feeling a little lack of protein in my diet. So while out to a lovely romantic dinner tonight with Johanna, I made the bold move and ordered a chicken kebab. Not too bad... but of course I thought some of it was undercooked.

Tomorrow is our first day trip excursion compliments of NYU. We are heading to Kutna Hora at 8:30 in the morning. I cannot wait to go to the bone museum...

100% praha

Johanna and I went back to our favorite vintage store today before classes. We just had to purchace the 100% authentic journals made by a Czech art student out of 100% recycled Czech materials. So I guess that makes them our journals both literally from and about prague. It's kinda neat. The owner, and our new friend, Ava, advised us to go to Berlin to find more vintage shops and alternative bars. I think we might try and plan a trip to Berlin now in like 2 weeks. Wonderful.

While my new purchase was definitely one of my highs of the day, today was also my first day of classes. I didn't start class until 1:30 but I had it straight until 5:50. It's weird ending class when it is dark out because at Hamilton I am used to being done with my classes before 3.......

Anyways, I only had 3 out of 4 of my classes (Czech, Kafka and his Contexts, and Photography). I loved all three of them. The classes are small, discussion based, and above all seem like they will be really interesting. My professors also seem great and very understanding of the fact that we are in Central Europe, a place very conducive for traveling to other parts of Europe. Thus, while attendence matters, it seems like it isn't a problem to miss class for traveling. In my Kafka and his Contexts class, my professor told us that the aim of the class is to understand our own life through the perspective of Kafka. Sounds right up my alley...

It also felt good to just sit in a class again and think. I feel like my brain hasn't been turned "on" in a while especially since I haven't been able to successfully complete basic things-- like, I don't know, go grocery shopping?... or find the locker room at the gym?...it sometimes gets disconcerting, so its nice to be realize that you can actually think.

While Johanna and I were sitting and enjoying our lovely lunch at a French cafe (in Prague???) we were pondering our observations and experiences so far. I am beginning to gain a better understanding as to why Czechs are the way they are towards Americans. It's interesting because it usually is the older people that seem to be stand-offish, while the younger generation is very pleasant. Every professor I had today kept apologizing for the way their fellow citizens act. They kept emphasizing that it has nothing to do us, as American students. It was as if they were parents explainng to us that their divorce was not the fault of their children. I feel like every time I meet a friendly Czech person it is just so refreshing.

Okay, well now we are getting ready to go to a bar called Nebe- apparently they have huge mojitos for an entire table with just a lot of straws. Should be interesting... especially since I don't have class until noon...

pivo, vino, vici

 
 
 
 

Okay, so I'm over my trepidation of looking like a tourist-- everyone knows I'm American anyway. Apparently there is no way of concealing it. I have gone on so many fascinating tours the past few days and the views have been GLORIOUS- I just had to take pictures. Apart from the Jewish Quarters, we also went on a tour of Castle Town (my favorite tour by far). Our tour guide, Simon, was wonderful and led us across the Charles Bridge where you can just see for miles upon miles. It is still unbelievable to me how these buildings were not destroyed in WW2. Apparently the reason why Hitler didn't destroy the Jewish Quarters was because he kept them as a negative example of Judaism. So unfortunately, they were preserved by the mal-intentions of Hitler. Oh, well.

There are various pet peeves that continue to irk me about Czech culture: I've never met a more silent group of people in my entire life. On public transportation it is deemed completely unacceptable to talk out loud. Everyone sits on the train looking miserable and holding their bags tightly so that no one will pick-pocket them. I don't understand this cultural phenomenon of stoicism and silence because every other action Czechs perform is loud and very overt. For instance, while you can't talk on the metro or the tramvaj, it is VERY MUCH socially acceptable to make out in public. It also doesn't seem to be a huge issue to just break into someone's car. Today, Johanna, Tessa and I went to the "Uncertain States of America" exhibit at the Galerie Rudolfinum. On our way into the museum, we saw a man standing with a purse in between his legs as he was prying open the front door of someone's car. We briefly contemplated saying something, but realistically, what could we have done? I just don't understand how people can get away with something like that, especially in the broad daylight. Unreal.

Regardless of those minor cultural annoyances, I had a very nice first Sunday here in Praha. Despite our inability to wake up before noon, I am SO glad we forced ourselves to go to the "Uncertain States of America" exhibit today. I have been wanting to see it for so long because Miranda July's work is a part of it. Honestly, right now I still feel like I am externalizing everything I just saw. There were mixed media projects, digital art, film, writing, audio, painting, sculpture... major sensory overload, but in an excellent way. I think my favorite medium used was silkscreen on canvas-specifically Nate Lowman's "Wish You Were Here" piece. I also really liked Matthew McCormick's film about the art of graffiti removal. He focused on the concept of subconscious art. Since government employees are hired to remove graffiti, the art form is considered unconscious, accidental and collaborative. Really though, graffiti removal, while it is not intended to be artwork, consists of just adding some other piece of art on top of graffiti. Graffiti removal reminds me of Mark Rothko: free floating squares that over lap each other. Interestingly, graffiti, as a work of art is one of the best ways for one to express their artistic desires and promote their own creative endeavors. On the other hand, graffiti removal works to repress such communication and therefore rejects anything recognizable.

We just finished cooking our own dinner in our kitchen. Pasta and salad and broccoli. Oh, and some crepes for dessert, thanks to Tessa. It reminded me of all our suite dinners where Emma would cook us something delicious...

Tomorrow ends this vacation. It really does seem like its been vacation. But tomorrow, classes shall resume and the vacationing must end, or at least slow down as well. I should say, however, that I don't have any classes tomorrow :)

"There was once communism here" - Direct Quote

It's definitely apparent that Praha was under communist rule for a long time. Yet it's amazing to me just how much of the culture and architecture survived. Yesterday afternoon I went on a tour called Mysteries of Prague's Old Town where we our guide explained the origins of many of the buildings right where our classes are. We also saw right where Kafka lived and grew up. Kafka actually lived in three different houses throughout his life all which are in close proximity to each other right in the center of the city and make a triangle [I thought this explained a lot]. And then today I went on a tour that took us around all of Jewish Prague. The cemetery is absolutely incredible to see and this picture does not do it justice. I'm happy that I am going on all of the tours that NYU is offering us during orientation week because it will be nice to get all of the 'touristy' stuff out of the way so then I can just go explore on my own.

I think we are finally starting to settle in more. We have already found some restaurants and bars that we have been to multiple times. For starters. the past two nights have ended at Peach Pit, a bar resembling that of the bar in 90210. Also, for the past two days we have gone to Bohemian Bagel for lunch. Delicious food, yet very American food. They have HUMMUS though and that is all I need.

One of the most famous examples of the Gothic architecture in Praha is the astronomical clock. Every hour a huge crowd gathers around to watch the mechanical show which is full of the movement of allegorical figures and astronomical movement. It's a cool thing to be able to see, but it's funny what a big deal they make of it (especially since it happens 24 times a day).

na schledanou

Dobry den.

Ahoj!

Today was the first day of "Survival Czech" lessons. All I can really say right now is that Czech is a ridiculous language. There are basically no vowel sounds and is just impossible to sound out. Anyways, my teacher for the next week is great. She is so friendly and one of the nicest Czech people I've met so far. Thus far, I have observed that most Czechs are either miserable people... OR, they just hate Americans. [Unfortunately, I think its mostly the latter]. It's really frustrating just how much we stand out as Americans mainly because we have smiles on our faces.
Although most of us from Hamilton had wanted to go away independently and we're a little unsure of how the situation would pan out with over 15 of us on the same program, I have to say that I am so happy everyone is here. Aside from just the comfort of seeing familiar faces, I have been able to hang out and even meet people from Hamilton that I never met before. I'm loving this whole Hamilton solidarity thing.

So another weird observation: despite the fact that we are in a city, dogs do not have to be on leashes! I am so glad I overcame my fear of dogs because this coule have been a bit of a 'situation'. It's incredible how obedient all of the dogs are. They never come up to you and the I've even seen some owners direct their dogs with hand motions.

In terms of going out...it's been non-stop [semi-intentional/bad pun: instead of open 24 hr signs, stores have huge signs that say non-stop]. The first night when we had absoltely no idea where we were going of course we accidentally walked into a strip club. Hilarious.

Then last night everyone was feeling a little nostaglic for some US of A football so we searched out an Australian sports bar called Fat Boy's and went there to watch the game. Of course the Americanized bar is called Fat Boys, how appropriate.

Funny story: EVERYTHING IS IN CZECH, literally. Grocery shopping is actually nearly impossible. First, we've already tried to buy milk and failed miserable. Instead, we bought something very sour and rather lumpy ... perhaps, buttermilk?? Then, since we aren't on a meal plan, eating habits are very scattered especially because we don't really know what to buy yet. So on our way home from the center of the town we stopped at the market and I saw some canned green beans that looked like edamame. Edamame would have been such a treat, however, after opening the can when we got back, canned peas were all that existed. Turned out to be not too shabby though after heating them up a bit.

Lastly, this is a picture of my room and kitchen...... I really need to start taking more pictures

Day Numero Uno

I am finally in Praha!! Everything is settling down and I just can't stop wanting to explore! Ironically, Danielle and I are room mates which is pretty sweet. Johanna lives right next to us, and although she is roommate-less right now, everyone around us seems to be really chill.

One thing I've learned so far is that time gets really weird when you fly overnight. I have been up for basically 24 hours straight now and am just confused. I'm trying to force myself to stay up till tonight so that I can get acclimated to the time change as soon as possible.

The only thing we did today was go on a short walk around our neighborhood to start to become familiar with it. Everything we need is right outside our dorm/apt (?) basically which is so nice. I guess that's one of the benefits of going to school in the city and not in upstate New York. After the walk, some friends and I went to a bar, drank some stellas and had some delicious food to hold us over for our 8:30 dinner.

Another thing I've noticed so far about Prague is that despite popular belief, barely anyone speaks English. So, I guess it is a good thing that I am taking Czech. It seems like a really great language to learn.

I think that's it for now-- I'm going to lie down in my bed and try not to fall asleep :)